E-tune Explained, Remote Tuning

What is an E-tune?

E-tune : AKA Etuning is to create a custom ECU/EMS calibration/map for a modified engine/car through the internet (from a remote location). The initial “base map” is created based on your exact build details, engine mods and fuel type. You can submit your build details/mods to our FREE online E-tune Database. Once you have the base map loaded to the ECU you will start recording data logs. These data logs are then sent through email to the tuner who will analyze the data and email an updated calibration/map back to the customer/car with changes based on the data logs. 

Here is a list of links to our most popular ECU Tuning services we offer for Motorsports top tier ECU manufactures:

• Motec Tune packages
• Haltech Tune packages
• AEM Infinity Tune packages
• Link ECU tune packages
• Emtron E-tune
• Porsche E-tune (Cobb AP) 
• R35 GTR E-tune Cobb AP
• E-tune WRX & STI Cobb Subaru (WRX, STI, FXT, LGT) Cobb AP tune packages
• E-tune Mitsubishi EVO X and Ralliart Cobb AP tune packages
• PLEASE note, regardless of the ECU being used you will need to add all your build details to our free online data base get.ffrides.com 

E-tuning has opened up opportunities for people in remote places without any local “tuner” to build the car of their dreams and have it professionally tuned starting at $200. Over the past 15 years Etuning has become increasingly popular with our customers both international and domestic. Brewed Motorsports offers Etune support for just about every ECU or EMS on the market including: Motec, Link, AEM, Haltech, Hondata, Cobb Emtron and many more. Now more than ever we are tuning cars for customers looking to get more performance than their local shop or tuner is able to provide. If you want the absolute most out of your build we are here to make that happen.

Here is a good example from one of our Brewedtuned RB26 customers that hit the dyno to compare the real world roller dyno reading with our Virtual Dyno results from Etuning. The results from Virtual Dyno and the roller dyno used were extremely consistent and the car has been making over 600 hp at the crank with only 19-20psi for the past 7+ years. Not only does this car see regular street time in Europe it also crushes super cars at the local circuit on the weekends! ***this is a stock block N1 RB26 with OEM nissan pistons/rods/bearings and crank.***

Nissan R32 GTR Skyline:

Wheels 18×10” (not the lightest wheel/tire combo but good match for this particular GTR)
Stock Block/stock head with 264 cams
ID 1000cc injectors
AEM series 2 EMS Brewed tuned
AEM in tank fuel pump **wired to 30amp relay**
Velocity Element dual knock sensor kit
Velocity Element T4 twin scroll turbo manifold
S362 FMW turbo

If you need help getting your ECU or EMS set up with a custom Base Map and E-tune or your current tune needs some love in check out our E-tune options and feel free to contact us any time. Not sure what ECU you need? No problem we tune just about everything and our team is happy to discuss all tuning options available for your application to ensure the best results. We offer a wide selection or plug n play Motorsports friendly ECU options just about ever engine package you can dream up. 

2 R34 GT-R’s both running our Plug n Play AEM Infinity ECU package. Purple car is on a Tomei 2.8L stroker and the grey car is on a fresh OEM rebuild. These are both customer cars located in South Korea. 

Helpful E-tuning links:

• Turbo S2000 tuning
• Fuel pressure ECU engine protection features explained
• AEM Infinity ECU Ignition Sync guide
• Motec E-tune and track support
• SR20 Spark Plug Guide
• K24 and K20 Spark Plug Guide 
• Internal VS External Wastegate 

How an E-tune Works:

1. Boost leak test the car. (This ensures there are no leaks, even a small leak will have a big effect on the tune and cause problems down the road.) Click here to check out a great DIY boost leak tester article and build instructions from a subaru guy.
2. Test for coolant, oil and fuel leaks (because fires are BAD).
3. Spark plugs; check you are using the correct heat range plug and that the plug is gapped correctly
4. Check your wide band AFR O2 sensor is working correctly and connected to the EMS and or data logger
5. Ignition sync; on most engine you should use a timing light to check that ignition timing at the engine matches the ignition timing value at the EMS

Commonly requested data logs:

***Note*** Each data log should be kept as short as possible (10-20 seconds is normal) Logs should be done in 3rd gear unless otherwise stated. DO NOT do any High throttle pulls or data logs until we have finished tuning the low/mid range throttle ranges.​

1. Engine start (cold start/engine warm up) this log will be one of the longest logs (logging from cold start to operating temperature).
2. Engine start/idle (warm/operating temp) this log is normally ~15 seconds
3. Low throttle 2nd gear (~10% throttle from 1500 to 4000rpm) **holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
4. Low throttle 3rd gear (~20% throttle from 1500 to 4000rpm)**holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
5. Mid throttle 3rd gear (~40% throttle from 1500 to 5000rpm)**holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
6. High throttle 3rd or 4th gear (~60% throttle from 2000rpm to redline)**holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**
7. High throttle 3rd or 4th gear (100% throttle from 2000rpm to redline)**holding throttle steady is the most important factor here, do not change the throttle position during the log.**